Friday 13 July 2012

Basic Skin Preparation

The most important and overlooked aspect of make-up, I feel, is the preparation of the skin. Most birds will pile on foundation and concealer along with a whole array of products without tending to the skin beforehand. Essentially, the skin make-up is being placed on will simply soak up the moisture from the product and leave pigment on the skin which can lead to a patchy, unblended look. For this reason, regardless of skin type, the skin should be well hydrated and clean. Working over last night's make up residue, no matter how hungover or rough you feel, is unhygienic unfortunately! So unless you don't mind blemishes, blackheads and whiteheads on your skin as well as blotchy make-up, I would recommend thoroughly cleansing and moisturising your skin before make-up application. The products you use will depend on your skin type.

To determine what type your skin falls under, wash your face with a gentle cleanser and leave the skin without any product for around an hour or so. You can then observe the skin's natural condition. Blot the skin of any oil to see exactly how much oil your skin naturally produces and where. You will also be able to see if the skin is dehydrated etc.

Below I've written a very basic guide to some cleansers and moisturisers for prominent skin types. Scroll down to find yours. I've added some eye and lip care as well as some exfoliators at the bottom. I hope this helps! ᵔ.ᵔ

Dry Skin
Dry skin will benefit from moisturising formulations. When looking for the right cleanser, be sure to find a product with gentle ingredients as harsh chemicals strip the epidermis (the outer layer of skin) of its natural oils. I would recommend the Emma Hardie Amazing Face Natural Lift and Sculpt Moringa Cleansing Balm. This works as a multitasking balm to thoroughly cleanse and add moisture to the skin. An excellent product to effectively remove all traces of make-up, hydrate the skin and, with the addition of a muslin cloth, brighten up the complexion. A great moisturizer to use following this is the Neal's Yard Remedies Jasmine Enriching Cream. It leaves skin glowing and supple, prepared for make-up application.

Oily Skin
Oily skin will benefit from deep cleansing formulations. Most products aimed for oily skin tend to contain abrasive chemicals which completely strip the epidermis of oil. Although this visually appears to deplete oil levels on the surface of the skin, it actually works to produce more oil as the lack of moisture causes skin to produce more oil to compensate. The aim is to cleanse the skin of any excess, pore clogging oil but keep the skin hydrated at the same time. As well as being beneficial for the health of the skin, it will also help prolong the wear of your make-up. For a cleanser, I would recommend the L'Occitane Foaming Rice Cleanser. This doesn't strip the skin ensuring the face isn't left with a tight, irritated feeling. Instead, skin is left shine free, clean and soft. For very oily skin La Roche Posay's Effaclar M Sebo-Regulating Mattifying Moisturiser works indubitably. It fully keeps oil at bay yet offers light, effective moisturisation. The skin is left extremely soft and silky, well prepared for make-up application. For those of you with oily, dehydrated skin, Madara Deep Moisture Gel is a lovely option. It leaves skin refreshed with a matte finish, visibly reduces the appearance of pores on a realistic level and keeps skin really hydrated rather than oily. It sinks in fast and has a non-sticky texture. Champion!

Combination Skin
Combination skin will benefit from balancing formulations. The important thing to remember is to use products which multitask therefore catering to all your skins needs. Liz Earle Cleanse and Polish is a top cleanser which works well with all skin types, particularly, I find, with combination skins. It has a comforting, creamy texture and contains ingredients, such as eucalyptus, which work towards clearer skin. By using this cleanser with the muslin cloth provided, skin is deeply cleansed and buffed with a balanced finish. It leaves skin hydrated and clean rather than greasy or stripped and tight. A lovely moisturiser to use for combination skins is the Biotherm Aquasource Gel. This has a very hydrating formula yet leaves skin completely shine free. It leaves skin smooth and prepared for make-up.

Normal Skin
Normal skins benefit from products which do not disrupt it's natural balance. The Eve Lom Cleanser does this job perfectly. It leaves skin balanced, soft, radiant and clean. The Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturiser is a favourite with a lot of other make-up artists as well as myself. It is a staple, along with all the other products I've mentioned, in my professional kit. It is perfect for normal skins as it has a light, absorbent texture and leaves skin supple and radiant. Although it hydrates it is not heavy on the skin thus preparing the face for make-up application efficiently.

Acne Prone Skin
Acne prone skin benefits from products which purify the skin. The REN Clearcalm 3 Clarifying Clay Cleanser is a product which ultimately works. It if free from harmful chemicals helping to calm inflamed skin; it is a nice option for those of you with drier skin. Another option is the Alpha-H Clear Skin Daily Face Wash. This gel based cleanser helps remove impurities from pores. It both soothing and antibacterial which is an extremely important property to keep skin clean and to keep bacteria at bay, therefore, limiting the acne from spreading. I would highly recommend this to those of you who suffer from regular, inflamed acne as well as very oily skin. Again, for oiler skins, Perricone MD Hypoallergenic Nourishing Moisturiser hydrates the face without adding any excess oil. It has a non-aggravating formula which is ideal for oiler, clogged, erupted skin. Aveda Outer Peace Relief Lotion is a brilliant offering for drier skins. This moisturises and hydrates skin but sinks in fast which means there is less of a chance for the lotion to sit on the skin and clog pores. It has a lovely calming and healing formula.

Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skins benefit from gentle, non-aggravating formulas. Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser is a non-comodegenic, gentle, cleanser containing minimum ingredients. The calming formula works to hydrate skin and leave skin smooth. I would recommend using Cetaphil Moisturising Cream following cleansing. It is a hydrating cream which doesn't clog pores, leaving skin supple and soft. Both products contain no perfume and are heralded by women worldwide for being brilliant basic formulas which truly work. 

Mature Skin
Deeply hydrating formulations work best with mature skin. Avoid using stripping formulas which will be too harsh for thinning skin. The StriVectin-SH Replenishing Cleanser has a rich formula which restores moisture leaving skin soft and radiant. My favourite moisturiser to use on mature skinned clients is the Chanel Ultra Correction Lift Lifting Firming Day Cream SPF 15. It is important for many women to protect the skin from further sun damage and this moisturiser contains adequate protection for general sunshine, another plus to this luxurious cream. The rich formula hydrates and soothes skin while plumping up fine lines. It soaks in quickly, therefore preparing skin for make-up faster. An all round winner!

Eyes and lips: Korres Materia Herba Moisturising Eye Cream is a staple in my professional kit. This cream leaves the under eye area plump, radiant and prepared for make-up. It is met with high praise from every client I use it on. For those of you with sensitive skin, this cream has never broken any of my testers or clients out and has in fact helped clear milia. This is also the most effective eye cream I have found which aids discoloration and circles around the eye. The anti-aging version is better for those of you with mature skin. Effects are long lasting with both offerings from Korres. For lips, the most used product in my kit is definitely the Nuxe Reve de Miel. This product is the dogs bollocks when it comes to moisturising the delicate skin on the lips. It soaks in and leaves skin nourished and smooth for make-up application. I would also recommend this product to anyone who smokes to help combat permanently chapped, dehydrated lips.

Exfoliators: Exfoliating the skin is something which, if done once or twice a week (never on consecutive days!), contributes to smoother, clearer skin. For those of you who like exfoliating beads, the Biotherm Biopur Exfoliating Gel effectively sloughs away dead skin leaving skin fresh and luminous. It works well at refining pores and getting rid of flaky skin revealing smoother skin. If you like the feeling of beads but have sensitive skin, the Origins Modern Friction is a top option. This product is gentle but leaves skin soft, radiant, smooth and plump looking. The beads are non-abrasive and the formula is very soothing and calming also. The Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant is another effective exfoliator. Because it is formulated to use on a daily basis, it is a very gentle option. This is a nice product for younger skins. 

Tuesday 5 June 2012

Hello!

Hello beautiful people! For my first post I should probably establish who I am and what I am doing here. I'm Fell and I'm a make-up artist from Manchester. I'm pretty much just a working class bird, terribly stuck in the nineties with the mind of a small child! I'm here to make make-up more playful and less superficial. Being vain is narcissistic, obsessing over looking perfect is shallow; be happy with who you are, the way you look can't contend with a good heart. Being an active computer and internet hater, when a mate of mine suggested I start a blog to 'go with my one of my jobs' ,I shrugged it off, probably cussing technology and the middle class, as you do! Little did I realize the potential a blog could have, the ability to spread some love in this technology/beauty obsessed time. And that's my intention here. I want my blog to be a place where people can find a little treasure chest of ideas and creativity and not something which pushes products aiming to achieve perfection, therefore heightening self consciousness which in my brain equates to a load of wank. This is my magic mirror you can take a little look into without judging yourself, 'cause let's face it, judging anyone is a pretty deep thing to do! I will be writing honest reviews, posting tutorials and looks for you all to try, I hope you enjoy! 





Much peace and love! x